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Spyder Riders Safety Tips and Tricks

MOTORCYCLE RIDING SHAPE

Get in shape for the new riding season with these Exercise Tips!
With the warmer temps, more bikes will be hitting the road, and longer trips are being planned. If you haven’t already, now’s a good time to do some spring maintenance on your bike since it might have been sitting for a while. However, the extended time of inactivity during the winter months might not be limited to your motorcycle.
We all need to take time to do some self-examination of your road worthiness. Many of us are less active during the winter months, and all those holiday celebrations and winter comfort food can have an impact. This is about more than just seeing if your riding gear still fits, it making sure that you are in shape to control your ride.

Exercise is important:
Motorcycling is a physical sport. Excellence in riding technique and safety requires strength and coordination. Just like athletes exercise and train for their sport, we motorcycle riders need to be in good shape and condition to ride, also.  Riding for a long time, like performing any other physical activity, uses some muscles that we haven’t  used for a while and will tax other muscles that are used in different ways.  It takes time to regain ride-ready muscles.  Here are some areas to consider in your motorcycle exercise program.

Legs:
Our legs are the largest muscle group in our bodies. We use our legs to lift our motorcycles from their side stands, support them at stops, and, at times, push them around.
While there are several weight-training exercises you can work on at a gym, the simple act of walking will do wonders. It’s also free. Walking one mile a day, more if you have the time, will keep your legs strong and offer benefits to your cardiovascular system. Simply put, walking is a winning endeavor.

Core strength:
Core muscles support our spine, hips, and shoulders, giving us the strength for good posture when riding our motorcycles. If your back, neck, or shoulders are achy after the first ride of the spring, this is a sure sign you need to work on your core.
Before you start working on core strength, you might want to consider a session with a professional trainer to learn the proper techniques. Here is a partial list of some exercises that work on your core:
Sit-ups, Modified sit-ups, Abdominal crunches, Side plank, Push-ups, Squats, Back extensions.

Arms and upper body:
Depending on the style of motorcycle you ride, the riding position will vary from sitting upright to leaning forward. The position you sit in will have an effect on how much upper body strength you will need while riding and it can help you focus on your exercise routine.
Some use of modest weights or resistance devices may be required to strengthen your arms and upper body. Here are some arm and upper body exercises to consider:
Chest press, Rowing, Bicep curls, Triceps press down, Wall push-ups, Hand grip squeezes
Start slowly and build up your exercise routine gradually. This will help avoid strains. Just like riding, proper technique and form is important. There are a lot of exercise techniques online and in books, but nothing beats learning from a trainer that might be at your local gym.
Your motorcycle deserves good maintenance, and so does your body. Just like our rides and bodies at times Spiritual Shape needs to be looked at and worked on also.
Sometimes as we get caught-up in our day to day struggles our typical faith “activities,” such as prayer and Bible study, have fallen by the wayside. Even though it might due to current life distractions good and bad (rather than any kind of faith crisis), it is amazing how fast we can get spiritually “out of shape.”
We should see our spiritual life as being in need of regular exercise, just as our physical bodies are in need to get on that motorcycle. But how do we get into and stay in spiritual shape? What does that actually look like? Here is a guide to toning the four spiritual “muscle groups”: Prayer, Bible Study, Church and Serving.

PRAYER:
The Prayer Barrier: When you haven’t prayed in a long time, or haven’t been praying regularly, guilt is often the major barrier to starting again. No other spiritual muscle group makes you face God directly in admitting that you’ve been “away.” If you’re like me, this can actually cause you to go even longer without praying because you don’t want to face God. Another barrier is that we often aren’t sure what to say or where to start when we’ve been disconnected for a while. World peace? My neighbor’s surgery? General praise and thanks? Forgiveness for a nagging sin? The blank prayer slate can be intimidating.

The Prayer Work Out Plan:
1. Remind yourself that God is actually waiting to hear from you again! There is no need to feel sheepish or intimidated.
2. You’ve heard it a million times before: “set a time to pray daily”. Ideally, choose a time that is part of your routine so you can’t forget. Try waking up early and put aside quite time or in the shower you might be much more consistent because showering is part of your daily routine.
3. Write down 5 things you want to pray about before you start. It helps get you back in the mindset of prayer and eliminates the fear of not knowing what to say.
4. When you pray, start by asking God for forgiveness for your “absence.” Acknowledging your distance sets aside your guilt barrier and opens you to free communication.
5. Prayer is a spiritual exercise we should all do daily. The Bible tells us to “Pray without Ceasing” in 1 Thessalonians 5:17!

Till next time, Pray Up before you Mount Up and Ride Safe!
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"FEAR"
Turn it into RESPECT


While researching what to do for the UBC F.A.I.T.H. Riders February “Safety Tips and Tricks”, I came across an article written by James R. Davis about Fear and turning it into respect that I felt would be good to share with my fellow riders. This article hit home with us because of my wife’s fear on two wheels, and I’m sure we all have at some time in riding come across a fear of one sort or another, no matter how tuff of Biker we think we are. I have changed some of the content but most of the following is the original article, so thanks Mr. Davis if you happen to read this.

Fear can kill you - it leads to riders freezing at their controls in an emergency and taking no corrective action whatever. It leads to doubts that are self-fulfilling. "I can't make that turn!" Finally, it leads to dangerous reactions such as 'grabbing a handful of brake lever or Stomping on the foot brake ' instead of doing a CONTROLLED panic stop.

But we, ALL OF US, were afraid to begin with. How to get over it should be the question you answer because by observation you know that virtually all of us did just that.

My suggestions are simple:
1.  Convert fear into respect. Understand and acknowledge that the sport (yes riding is a sport) is dangerous and that what you must do to survive it is UNDERSTAND everything you can about it. Ignorance is the cause of a great deal of fear.
2.  Ask questions to people that have ridden, that you trust, and that will help you no matter what you ask.  Support from an experience rider is one of the best learning tools.
3.  Make sure that the motorcycle is ALWAYS mechanically sound. Your life depends on just two or three wheels; it only makes sense to insure that they are well maintained.
4.  Practice and then PRACTICE some more. Practice in all kinds of environments, not just a parking lot. Practice in the rain. Practice on gravel. Practice stopping and starting on a hill. Practice stopping quickly (in a parking lot!) Practice going fast (speed limited by law.) Practice going SLOW - this is just as important!
5.  Be prepared. You cannot practice enough to have experienced everything - the car that moves into your lane at freeway speeds should be an event that is new to you. The unexpected does happen - often. Sometimes, unfortunately, things break - even if properly maintained. In other words, you should assume that sooner or later you will find yourself getting off your motorcycle unintentionally (it falls over in a parking lot with ten of your friends watching you.) You should be dressed to not only survive that experience, but so that you will be uninjured or minimally affected by that dismount. (Can you say 'helmet', 'gloves', 'leather'?)

A few years ago when we were looking at rides (bikes) for my wife, we ran across a very wise salesman that said “When you open the Garage door and see your motorcycle your reaction should be I Want to ride you today” not “Do I really have to ride you today”. We didn’t listen to this advice and soon found out she had the latter of the above statement and fear was the cause. For two years she just could not get over riding on two wheels through the curves. Other than the curves she loved to ride, so that’s when we had to work on what is causing the fear. Come to find out her fear was the leaning and feeling the motorcycle had control of her and not her having control of the motorcycle.

Now, to go back ... your objective should be to convert fear into respect. I do not mean respect merely of the dangers or of your motorcycle - those are the least of it. You need to develop a respect of YOURSELF and an absolute regard for your ability to CONTROL the motorcycle at all times. You want an immense pride in your ability to make that 100 horsepower machine do exactly what you want it to do when you are riding, when that happens, you have won.

In my wife’s case we knew it was the feeling of being on two wheels going around the curves that she feared the most, as I said she love the ride so let’s concur (or address) the fear. By going to three wheels (a sporty Can-Am Spyder RSS) the fear of the curves was taken out of the picture. Don’t get me wrong, there were other challenges with three wheels but in my wife’s case she was able to learn to respect the bike and herself because she overcame the major fear and anxiety that it brought on when riding the curves by just changing one thing (the ride). This change was a drastic change but the right one because she was ready to give up on riding all together; maybe your change does not need to be so drastic. 

What we also learned is sometimes to overcome the fear it may be as simple as that you also need to 'Ride your own ride’ and this is not just a catchy phrase. It means just what it says - ride to YOUR skill level, not anybody else's. Accept that others may be 'better' at some motorcycle skills than you are because it's true. And know what your skills are, stay within your own competence envelope, and know that your odds of enjoying tomorrow's ride are at least as good as anybody else's because your odds of surviving today's ride are not lowered just to 'keep up.'

Handling life sometimes can be a lot like some of the fears that you face on riding a motorcycle in the beginning, its Anxiety brought on by Fears. The way you can take on these life fears is to call for/on help from Jesus.

Follow these simple steps to have Jesus help you with your fear:
  • Identify your fears.
  • Pick the fear you are MOST afraid of.
  • In quiet and solitude, talk to Jesus about your fear.
  • Ask Him to show YOU how much He loves you!
  • Enter into prayer and see your fear and hand it over to Jesus as you are waiting for the love of Christ to come to you!
Then Comfort your soul with these words:
For God has not given us a spirit of fear, but of power and of love and of a sound mind.  (2 Timothy 1:7)
Remember:

There are many reasons that we ride our motorcycles with grins on our faces.

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Throw Caution to the Wind-Chill!

Wind-Chill Charts at the end of the Article 
Wind-chill or wind chill, (popularly wind chill factor) - is the perceived decrease in air temperature felt by the body on exposed skin due to the flow of air.

A cold wind can chill you to the bone, no doubt. But what does "wind chill" really mean, and is it even an accurate concept? The real answer might surprise you. You hear about wind chill all the time once temperatures start to drop. It's one of those things people love to throw out when discussing the weather: "Did you hear? Its 10 degrees out, but with the wind chill its 15 below zero!" It's become so commonplace; many people disregard the actual temperature and go straight for the wind-chilled "effective" temperature - because it just sounds so much more interesting.

As a rider, wind chill is something you're even more keenly aware of. We've all been chilled to the bone on a ride when it's only moderately cold out, because of the blast of "wind" created by rushing through air on a bike at high speed. What would be slightly chilly standing still, suddenly feels like a polar vortex when riding down the highway.

I know riding a motorcycle/Spyder at speed magnifies the cold, because I've felt it. But when I set out to understand wind chill as a scientific model, I was surprised to find out that it's actually not very scientific at all. It turns out that "wind chill" is really a very hazy concept, rooted in some very inconsistent assumptions, and it's probably one of the most subjective and misused measurements in all of weather science.

So Why does it make you Cold? 
Wind doesn't actually reduce temperature at all - all things being equal, it is impossible for wind to reduce the temperature of something below the ambient temperature.  Any non-living object can only be chilled to the ambient temperature, and not below it. The temperature isn't actually causing the temperature to drop; it only feels like it is to humans, because of the body's physical response to cold. By constantly blowing away the heat the body generates, convection (the transfer of heat by flowing air) creates the sensation of being colder than it actually is.

I said "all things being equal" above because this doesn't account for the effect of moisture and evaporation. If something is wet, and wind is passing over it, the evaporative effect can drop the actual temperature of the object. When you get out of a pool on a hot day, and a breeze hits you and makes you feel cold, this is technically not "wind chill," but rather, the chilling effect of evaporation.

How is Wind Chill Calculated?
Because wind chill tries to measure the perception of cold, and not the actual temperature, it is not necessarily an inexact science (and one might say, not actually science at all, since it is not consistent or reproducible.) Different people in varying conditions will feel different at varying levels of cold. Wind chill is in fact only an approximation of a feeling - and a very rough one at that.

The problem is that, unlike temperature - which is a uniform and exact measurement - there is no universally accepted standard for the effects of wind chill. Different countries actually use different formulas to estimate wind chill, and they have changed significantly over time (In Europe, "wind chill" isn't even a commonly used term.

The current standard for measuring wind chill was developed in 2001, it's based upon the estimated effect of wind on a bare human face walking into the wind at 3mph. In addition, because wind chill is calculated as the feeling of cold wind upon bare skin, the degree of wind chill estimated by the formula would only apply if you were completely unprotected by windshields or fairings, and if you weren't wearing any clothes. Hopefully you don't ride like that (but if you do, we don't want to know)!

So ultimately, wind chill is only an attempt by science to describe the sensation of cold on the skin as it is affected by wind. It's not an actual unit of measurement, and it varies from person to person depending on their tolerance to cold, what they are wearing, and even the level of moisture in the air.

Does That Mean Wind Chill Doesn't Exist?
Heck no! Anyone who's ridden a motorcycle/Spyder in the cold can tell you that zooming through the air makes it feel a lot colder than it is. But that's just the thing - it's all about feel, and everyone feels cold differently (personally, I'm a pretty big wimp when it comes to the cold.)
The point is not that it doesn't exist. Only that it's far from exact, and based on the way it's measured, is usually grossly exaggerated. Wind-chill reports tend to exaggerate the actual rate at which you feel cold, and those reports often end up being discounted by most people who have experience in cold weather because it does not tend to agree with personal experience.

How to Fight Off Wind Chill on a Spyder
Since riding a motorcycle/Spyder doesn't usually involve much physical activity, your body isn't doing much to generate its own heat. This means you have to do all you can to insulate the heat you do have, to prevent it from being whisked away by rushing air. If you protect yourself from the cold adequately with windproof warming layers and even heated gear, you can take huge steps toward making wind chill become almost not a factor at all.
Fighting wind chill comes down to two components: insulation layers to slow the rate at which body heat is lost, and wind proofing to prevent rushing air from stealing that heat away.

Layering 
Layering is critical to all cold-weather activities, including motorcycle riding. Good bottom layers are things like a snug fitting poly fleece or wool, followed by down or synthetic down insulating layers. Heated gear is also highly recommended for motorcycling since you have a power source - your bike - available to you. (Check out our complete buyers guide on heated gear by clicking the banner below).

Wind Propfing
Wind proofing is where you seal the heat in to keep it from being stolen away by the rushing air. The most important part of wind proofing is seamlessness - all the money you spend on high end windproof gear doesn't mean squat if you have weak points where all the heat is escaping. At motorcycle riding speeds, that small gap between your gloves and jacket cuffs or between your collar and helmet suddenly become gaping holes in your cold defenses. And you won't just have a cold neck or wrists either; because blood is being pumped throughout your circulatory system constantly, those small cold areas literally spread cold throughout your entire body!

On a motorcycle/Spyder, it’s critical to be able to seal up those leaks with Velcro, drawstrings, and even versatile items like a scarf or balaclava. And don't forget the single biggest wind protection item you can use, and you don't even have to wear it - a windshield!

To help you calculate the degree of protection you'll need on a ride, Refer to the wind-chill charts (Fahrenheit & Celsius) below for motorcycle/Spyder riders, with wind chill factor expressed at common cruising speeds.


Wind-Chill Criticism
Believers can experience a different kind of wind-chill in their day to day walk as they run across hostility and criticism when we share what we believe.   The only New Testament reference to weather is found in the Gospel of John: “It was the feast of the Dedication at Jerusalem; it was winter, and Jesus was walking in the temple, in the portico of Solomon” [John 10: 22]. 
John was a fisherman, not a meteorologist, so he could be referring to the spiritual climate expressed by those who were opposed to Jesus and his message and not to the season itself. The wind-chill factor of hostility and endless criticism from the religious leaders in Jerusalem cut through Jesus and his disciples to the bone, blasting them with the cold air of ridicule and resentment.  Into this arctic atmosphere Jesus spoke those beautiful words that compared his followers love and trust for him to that wonderful relationship between the sheep and their shepherd. “My sheep hear my voice”, Jesus said. “I know them, and they follow me. I give them eternal life, and they will never perish. No one will snatch them out of my hand.” [John 10: 27-28].

As we are out in this wind-chilled world we must seal up the leaks and get behind the windshield with Jesus and think about what he told us in John 10: 27-28 and remember the warmth of His relationship with us as follow Him.


Bundle Up and Ride Safe this Winter








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Battery Tenders - Keep the Spark Alive 



It’s that time of year that we all need to think about keeping the Spark Alive in our Rides. Since the battery in our scoots takes a real beating year round we want to make sure we don’t forget to take care of them during the cold weather. 

The battery supplies the bike with a constant flow of power with all of the lights and accessories while it's running. The charging system is working all of the time. Some folks don't understand that average driving will not keep a battery fully charged all of the time. Once a battery has been in service for a while, the vibration, heat and continuous charging and discharging will take a toll on the life of a battery. Keeping the terminals and cable screws tight and clean is very important and among one of the most neglected items when it comes to battery maintenance. Having said all of that, I have found, if you keep the battery charged with a Battery Tender, it will last longer and help keep the electrical and starting system in good condition.
What is a motorcycle battery tender?
A motorcycle battery tender is a small, automatic battery charger that turns on and off as needed to keep your motorcycle battery at an optimum charge level. Some of the greatest features include:
·    All motorcycle battery tender units are designed to be left connected to the motorcycle battery for an indefinite amount of time without harming the battery or the electrical components of the bike.
·    A good motorcycle battery tender operates automatically without any monitor requirements from the user.
·   The motorcycle battery charger will usually have a low amperage output between 750 and 1100 milliamps.
Most of the advanced battery tenders on the market are built around a charging algorithm (step by step procedure or process) unique to that company/product - examples of these are DeltranNOCO, and CTEK.
Why Should You Use a Motorcycle Battery Tender?
There are two primary reasons to use a battery tender for your motorcycle: prevention of parasitic drains and prevention of sulfation build up.
Prevent Parasitic Drains:
As motorcycles become more integrated with technology (alarm systems, GPS, diagnostics), some of these systems will continue to draw an extremely small amount of current from the battery when the ignition key is off. Over a long enough period, this will result in a dead battery.
You can counter the dead battery problem through the use of a motorcycle battery tender. The tender will recognized that the battery has been brought below its fully charged voltage and begin charging the unit until it is once again in the green. Then the tender will shut down. The battery tender will repeat this process as needed automatically.
Prevent Sulfation:
Many motorcycle owners live in areas where riding is governed by seasons – in which case they would be forced to put their bike in storage. The problem with this in relation to the battery is that it will naturally lose its charge over time. All lead-acid based batteries will naturally self-discharge over time.
Over a span of two to three months, your motorcycle battery has the potential to self-discharge to the point where sulfation begins to build up on the internal plates. This will result in a significant loss of cracking amps and capacity.
If you use a motorcycle battery tender, the battery will be kept in a constantly charged state, and sulfation would not occur.
Popular Motorcycle Battery Tenders
Ready to invest in a motorcycle battery tender; improve the lifespan of your motorcycle battery and the use of your favorite summer ride? Browse the following collection of the most popular motorcycle battery tenders.

Deltran Battery Tender Junior  (e-bay price $25.00 to $36.00)
Known as the “trickle charger with a brain,” the battery tender junior will fully charge your motorcycle battery and maintain it at the proper storage voltage without the damaging effects caused by most other trickle chargers.
NOCO Genius G750 Battery Charger (e-bay $28.00 to $35.00)
A smart, fully automatic switch-mode battery charger and maintainer, the NOCO Genius can safely stay connected to your bike 24/7.


CTEK US 0.8 Battery Charger (e-bay price $54.00)
Offering state-of-the-art technology, the CTEK is perfect for charging smaller 12V batteries, such as those found in motorcycles. And, the CTEK’s unique display allows you to follow the entire 6-step charging process.


 Spiritual Battery Tender
(price Free for the Asking) 
As believers in Christ it is essential that you stay 'charged up' as well. If you claim to know Jesus as your saviour do you take the time you need to spend time in meditation and prayer to get your day off to a good start? It is a sort of 'recharging' of your batteries to get alone with God and your Bible and spend time getting 'recharged' for the Lord so you are equipped to better handle whatever comes your way that day and to Keep that Spark Alive.
No one can keep going and going and not get rest. There are very few 'Energizer Bunnies" out there. If you do not rest you would be absolutely worn out.
Resting in the Lord too is essential and this does not mean going to bed at night using the Bible as a pillow. You as a child of God need to refresh renew and recharge as well and the Bible is our spiritual food and our Battery Tender. Do not let your power for Jesus die out by neglecting to do the things that make you strong in the Lord.

PRAYER:
Lord today and everyday I need to have you firmly in my life. Sometimes I neglect my quiet times and often I never even pick up the Bible to see what you would have me learn. I know I cannot be strong in the Lord and close to you if I do not take this time each day to renew and recharge. Help me Lord to make myself get up and have enough time to spend some alone time before my day gets too busy and you are once again squeezed out.
In Jesus Name,
Amen.

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The cold is coming and it time for fall foliage Riding.

Tips to get you and your Spyder ready:
This time of year is probably one of the best times to ride your Spyder in God’ Country. The fall foliage turns all of our favorite country roads from a sea of green into a spectacular palette of oranges, reds, and gold.At the same time, milder temperatures make wearing protective riding gear more comfortable than during summer’s swelter. But as enjoyable as those milder temperatures are, they may also come with some surprises and extra maintenance for your motorcycle. With a little thought and planning, you can prepare and help improve your enjoyment and safety during this transitional season.
Here are some tips to get ready for fall riding and fall foliage driving:

Check your battery: 
Your Spyder's battery will get a workout this season. Starting a cold motor takes more energy. And as the battery gets colder, the amount of power available is reduced. That’s when a battery with a higher cold-cranking amp rating really shines. Load test your battery’s charge to make sure it’s ready for those cold weather starts.
Check your oil and other fluids: 
Some motorcycles come with different recommended oil viscosity ratings based on the temperature. Make sure you follow these recommendations to help your motorcycle engine run better and last longer. If your motorcycle has a liquid-cooled engine, check both the coolant level and quality. Follow factory standards for the coolant type and mix ratio.
Examine your tires: 
You’ll want to take a look at your tire pressure before each ride this fall. As the temperature drops, your tire pressure drops. Proper inflation improves your bike’s handling, braking, and tire life. And while you’re checking the pressure, make it a habit to examine the tires for wear or damage.
Test your lights: 
Fall means darkness comes earlier, so you’ll depend on your headlight more. Check both the high and low beam before each ride. And don’t forget your turn signals. Remember, your lights make you more visible to drivers who may be distracted with leaf-looking.
Consider electric riding gear: 
Riding with electrically heated gear may extend your riding season, increase your comfort, and help prevent hypothermia. Carefully choose your gear based on your motorcycle’s charging system capacity. Compare how many amps your motorcycle generates at cruising speed to how much amperage your motorcycle uses. That way you can determine the available spare power for electric gear. If it uses more than the available spare power, you’ll be discharging your battery while riding—leaving you in need of an overnight charge to start your motorcycle the next day. 
Watch the weather forecast: 
We all know the weather can change rapidly this time of year, so it’s important to check the forecast for the areas where you’re riding. When you know what to expect, you can pack the gear you’ll likely need during your ride. Weather can be fickle, so pack a few extra layers just in case. You can’t be too prepared for falling temperatures.

Tips to avoid fall foliage driving failures
Remember, fall foliage has a similar effect on a lot of other people, and not just motorcyclists. The roads through many scenic areas will be filled with vehicles of every description (Cages, Motorcycles and Spyder Riders).Today’s roads are filled with drivers distracted by their phones and other in-vehicle non-driving activities. God’s spectacle of fall foliage can compound the level of driver distraction, further reducing their awareness of other road users, including motorcycles. So, we should be on guard when riding. Here are a few tips to cope with leaf-looking drivers when hitting the road:

Pay attention: 
Notice where drivers’ heads are facing. If they are clearly looking at the trees, they probably don’t see you or your motorcycle.
Notice wanderers: Vehicles that are wandering in their lane of travel might indicate the driver is not looking at the road.
Watch for speed variations: 
When following other vehicles, their random slowing and speeding up is another sign of leaf-looking distraction. 
Observe license plates: 
Drivers from other states are less likely to be familiar with the local roads and might make unexpected maneuvers. 
Watch mirrors: 
Keep track of what’s around you, especially when slowing, stopping, changing lanes, or turning. The driver behind you might be keeping pace with you, and paying only partial attention to your position while they focus on the scenery.
Be aware of drifters: 
When encountering long lines of dense traffic moving in the opposite direction, watch out for vehicles that drift over the centerline. Some drivers frustrated by slow-moving traffic on scenic roads make ill-advised and sometimes illegal passes.
Plan ahead:
Consider touring popular fall foliage areas during the middle of the week. You’ll find less traffic on the roads. As an added bonus, restaurants will be less crowded and lodging might be more available and less expensive.
Pray First, Then Ride: 
As always say a little Prayer before taking off on your ride: Now I prepare to ride and roll down the road so wide. Keep me riding strong and true, Lord I place my faith in you. Keep me safe and keep me free, let all the dangers flee. Lord I may split the lane, do things crazy and act insane, I may ride normal obey the rules but keep me safe from the all the fools. I watch for cagers and other dangers. Lord do your part, I trust you with all my heart  

Lastly, remember as a rider you, too, can suffer from leaf-looker syndrome. Stop and enjoy the beauty of the fall foliage at scenic pull-outs and overlooks. When you’re back on the motorcycle, focus on the road and traffic, and avoid the foliage follies.


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Cold Weather Equals Colder Tires
It’s this simple – cold weather means colder tires, and as everyone should know, cold tires equate to limited traction. Riding helps increase heat in the tire, but even the briefest stop can quickly cool the tires down, providing lack of traction, the temperature of tires can make a huge difference. Commonly riders know that cold tires slide, so they ride cautiously until the tires have warmed to operating temperature.

To start check your tire pressure; you should check this religiously before every ride. This is more than crucial during the fall and winter months when optimal traction is needed. When your motorcycle sits for long periods of time, or is exposed to temperature fluctuations, the pressure in them can be reduced.  You should always check your tire pressure before every ride and they need to be cold (at least 3 hours from your last ride).  If you ride daily, you may reduce your tire pressure checks to once a week, but still do a visual inspection every time you ride.

Let’s now discuss how you get heat in your tires, many riders sway back and forth like a NASCAR driver, but simply put, this is a waste of time. To truly get heat in the tires, accelerate and decelerate quickly for a bit, obviously being aware of traction. Hard on brakes, too hard on the throttle, puts heat in tires more quickly than riding like some redneck swaying back and forth and it doesn’t look so stupid.

Also, make sure you have adequate tread on your tires for cold weather riding. Penny pinching on tires is almost as smart as penny pinching on the quality of a motorcycle helmet, and this is truer-than-ever in winter-motorcycling scenarios. Tires don’t last forever and are only good for a maximum of 5 years from the date they were manufactured (not the purchase date). You can find the date your motorcycle tires were manufactured on the sidewall usually inside and oval shape. Every street-legal tire sold in the U.S. will have a Department of Transportation (DOT) serial number stamped into it. The serial number begins with the letters “DOT” and ends with a four-digit date code (if there are only three numerals, the tire was made before 2000 and should be discarded). The four digits represent the week and year of production. For example, a date code of “1012”  means the tire was produced in the 10th week of 2012, this means that this tire is now over 5 years old and should also be replaced and discarded.

Cold tires is a circumstance that you need to deal with if you’re riding on two or three tires, checking your tires is a process that we as riders all need to learn, accept and get used to doing in all seasons.  Spiritual growth is also a process; there are prerequisite lessons that must be learned before more advanced transforming truth can be assimilated, I don’t know where you are in the process, but God does. He sent His Holy Spirit to function as your personal technical expert to train you.  Part of His training plan is to create or permit circumstances that bring you to the end of yourself; circumstances that cause you to get so sick of yourself and your inability to change that you throw up your hands in submissive surrender to His Spirit’s guidance. If and when that happens, you will be closer than you ever have been to knowing the peace, power, and joy of the Spirit-filled life.
  
   “Grow in the grace and knowledge of our Lord and Savior Jesus Christ.”
 1 Peter 3:18
Remember you only have 3 tires between you and the pavement, so keep the rubber side down, warm them up and check them often,  along with your spiritual growth. 

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Safety Recall’s
Have you checked your ride lately?

Everyone assumes that the new motorcycle they buy will be trouble-free. In fact, many riders only buy new bikes to eliminate some of the repair problems associated with used bikes. However, motorcycles do develop problems and some are serious enough that they have to be fixed using a motorcycle recall program.
Keeping up to date on the latest motorcycle recall information is vital for your safety and to keep your ride at peak performance. There may be times during the life of your motorcycle where components have to be replaced under a manufacturer Safety Recall.  For your safety, and in accordance with local vehicle standards agencies, manufacturer will introduce notices as deemed necessary.
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) maintains a database of vehicle recalls. Also, from time to time, motorcycle equipment items (such as helmets) may be recalled. The equipment items are also handled by the NHTSA.
Motorcycle manufacturers have a duty to attempt to notify owners of recalled vehicles or vehicle equipment. For vehicle recalls, this means that manufacturers merge their own records of vehicle purchasers with current vehicle registration information on file with each state’s Department of Motor Vehicles. For equipment recalls, in situations where state registration records do not exist, manufacturers are obligated to notify their distribution chain and known purchasers of the recalled equipment.
Importantly, if your motorcycle or other item of equipment is the subject of a safety recall -- even if you don’t receive a notification of a recall -- the manufacturer is obligated to remedy the defect at no cost to you. Under federal law, manufacturers must remedy any safety problems that are significant enough to prompt a recall without cost to consumers.
For further information relating to motorcycle recalls and to find if your motorcycle has a defect or has been recalled check out the manufacturer’s web page link or try some of the links listed below.

SAFETY RECALL NOTICE from GOD:
Vin #: Human Beings 
The Maker of all human beings (GOD) is recalling all units manufactured, regardless of make or year, due to a serious defect in the primary and central component of the heart.
This is due to a malfunction in the original prototype units code named Adam and Eve, resulting in the reproduction of the same defect in all subsequent units. This defect has been technically termed "Sub-sequential Internal Non-Morality,"or more commonly known as S.I.N., as it is primarily expressed. 
Some of the symptoms include: 
1. Loss of direction 
2. Foul vocal emissions 
3. Amnesia of origin 
4. Lack of peace and joy 
5. Selfish or violent behavior 
6. Fearfulness 
8. Idolatry 
9. Rebellion 
The Manufacturer, who is neither liable nor at fault for this defect, is providing factory-authorized repair and service free of charge to correct this defect. The Repair Technician, JESUS, has most generously offered to bear the entire burden of the staggering cost of these repairs. There is no additional fee required. The number to call for repair in all areas is: P-R-A-Y-E-ROnce connected, please upload your burden of SINS through the REPENTANCE procedure. Next, download ATONEMENT (agreement) from the Repair Technician, JESUS, into the heart component. 
No matter how big or small the SIN defect is, Jesus will replace it with: 
1. Love 
2. Joy 
3. Peace 
4. Patience 
5. Kindness 
6. Goodness 
7. Faithfulness 
8. Gentleness 
9. Self control 
Please see the operating manual, the B.I.B.L.E(Basic, Instructions, Before Leaving, Earth) for further details on the use of these fixes. 
Romans 10:9 (NKJV) “ that if you confess with your mouth the Lord Jesus and believe in your heart that God has raised Him from the dead, you will be saved”.
WARNING: Continuing to operate the human being unit without correction voids any manufacturer warranties, exposing the unit to dangers and problems too numerous to list and will result in the human unit being permanently impounded. For free emergency service, call on Jesus.
DANGER: The human being units not responding to this recall action will have to be scrapped in the furnace. The SIN defect will not be permitted to enter Heaven so as to prevent contamination of that facility. Thank you for your attention! 
P.S. Please assist where possible by notifying others of this important recall notice, and you may contact the Father any time by 'Knee mail'! Because He Lives

Jesus was born of the Virgin Mary by the Holy Spirit, was crucified on the cross for our sins, died then rose again to be seated at the right hand of God the Father all mighty to reign for ever and ever.


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Group Riding Etiquette:

Riding in a group is a great way to forge friendships, enjoy fun, and present a unified front but it can also be a challenging time. Riders need to be aware of particular tips to help make riding with the group a successful one. Here are some that might help -

1. Always be on time.
There is no such thing as being fashionably late when riding with groups. Some folks say "Early is on time and on time is late.” When riding with a group, especially a new group, it's important to be respectful of everyone’s time. Most riders have limited time on their motorcycles. There are few things more annoying than waiting around at a smelly gas station for a straggler. And nothing will get you uninvited to a “private group ride” more quickly than being chronically fashionably late.

2. Come prepared with the route details.
Unless the route is a complete mystery, or you have difficult remembering things, don’t ask repeatedly, “Are we there yet?” If you want play-by-play information such as how long until the lunch stop, potty break, or the destination, invest in a GPS or print a copy of the route and bring it with you. Many ride captains put a good deal of work into creating and sharing the route in advance.

3. Know where to ride in the pack.
Rider placement in a group is important and different groups do things differently. Some groups prefer to put the most relaxed or inexperienced rider behind the ride captain and other groups prefer the rear in front of the sweep. When riding with a new group ask the leader where she would like you placed. If you haven’t ridden with the group it’s generally better to hang toward the back of the pack. You can move up at a break. Don’t assume because you’re a fast rider in your familiar riding group that you belong in the front with a new group. Better to be polite than cocky.

4. Gauge break lengths by the ride captain's actions.
If the ride captain hasn’t communicated how long the break will be, observe his actions. If he takes off his helmet, chances are you can take yours off too. Conversely, if he leaves hia helmet on that's a good indication it’s a quick regroup or “gas-and-go” break. You should leave your helmet on too or risk getting death stares from your fellow riders as they wait for you so the adventure can continue. When the group has stopped, be observant. When in doubt, ask.

5. Be ready to saddle up at the end of a break.
A big no-no is after the ride captain has announced it’s time to saddle up, is to light up a cigarette, run in to get a coffee, or decide you changed your mind and need a mother nature break after all. Respect others. If you need frequent long breaks, take the initiative to form and lead group rides with other like-minded/like-riding-style bikers. And for those with small bladders try either cutting back on the caffeine or enjoying your coffee several hours before you are scheduled to ride so you aren’t having to stop more frequently than the rest of the group.

6. Don’t get in front of the ride captain.
Even if the ride captain waves you forward, if you aren’t confident where you’re going hang back. Let the captain do his job. Be a follower.

7. Be flexible.
Things don't always work out as planned and some of the best times occur off the beaten path. Don't get upset when your expected lunch stop is closed. Look forward to a new and different location. Don't grumble and complain. Smile and enjoy the unexpected pleasures that lie ahead of you.

8. See something, say something
The ride captain can't always see the entire group at the same time. If you see something that needs his attention, share it privately and let him handle it. It may be that there's a rider with health issues or perhaps someone's having mechanical issues with their bike. Be watchful and report as needed. Safety is the first concern of the entire group.

9. Ride your own ride.
Set your own pace and ride your own ride. As you ride with the group, make sure to do your best to keep up and not lag behind. Enjoy the ride but don't dawdle. No one likes a slowpoke and you don't want to be left behind. Keep up with the pace.

10. Saying thank you goes a long way.
A lot of work goes into organizing a ride, creating a route, producing GPS files and maps, picking lunch destinations, promoting the ride, and leading it. Expressing your appreciation for the organizer’s hard work is one way to be invited again. Be sure to thank the sweep as well. Done right, the sweep’s role is a tough job. Even if the ride didn’t quite meet your expectations, thank the road captain keep your criticism to yourself.


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How to survive riding among the deaf and blind

If you've been on the road lately, you know it's dangerous out there! Every single time you get on your bike, you're taking a risk with your life. So many drivers are distracted by their cell phones and even while it's against the law to text and drive, many people still do. These drivers are what we like to consider deaf and blind. Deaf, because they're so distracted they aren't focused on what's going on around them and they don't hear the things they need to hear. Blind, because they have a one track mind. Their phone causes them to fail to take the necessary precautions to look to the right, left, in front of and behind them. And while this isn't as great a risk to other car drivers, it's deadly for bikers! Bikers know it's important to be as visible as possible, but what else can we do, while riding with these distracted drivers to remain safe?

Here are some tips that might help: 

It's important to learn the signs to help you pick out those distracted drivers. If they're holding a phone up to their ear, it's pretty evident but sometimes, a driver might be using the built in Bluetooth in their car or ever be wearing a headset. Be on the lookout for 
  • unexplained slowing
  • failure to use signals
  • cars remaining motionless even when the light turns green
  • driver's head in the downward position (which is a good indicator he's looking at his phone)
If you notice any of these warning signs, maintain a safe distance and be ready to brake suddenly if necessary. Stopping distances include reaction times, so learn to cover your brakes in traffic. Ride in a gear that gives you instant acceleration to clear jams. 

Flash your brake light (foot tapping on the rear brake pedal does a good job of this) when decelerating. This will alert drivers behind you to slow down. 

Learn to do a quick back-and-forth weave as you approach vehicles waiting to turn across your path. This weave is a quick push-pull-push on the handlebars, not enough to actually turn your bike, just give the headlight a weave in the hopes that the waiting caller will pay attention and notice what's going on around him.

Be noticed, not just with bright gear, weaving, or flashing your brake light. Stand up occasionally. Use your left hand to augment your turn signals as you show your intention to turn or change lanes. Drop your left arm down when you slow down. Be different to be noticed.

Develop a mix of aggressive and defensive riding skills. Learn when to sit back and wait or when to zip ahead. 

Learn to watch and predict traffic. As you pay attention, you can determine the flow of traffic. Why are all these cars going in this direction? Commuters leave neighborhoods for freeways and then leave freeways, sometimes at the last minute, for exits leading to their workplaces. Drivers in national parks are sight-seeing and may pull over or simply stop in the lane when they see wildlife. You get the idea. Your job is to not be in the way of this flow.

Judge the car. If a vehicle is dinged up with bumps and bruises, this shows a history of poor driving. A jacked-up four-wheel-drive pickup with loud music playing might be driven by a person with an aggressive personality. You will learn to relate certain vehicle types with certain drivers and that helps your decisions on bike placement in relationship to those vehicles.

Plan your counter move. See the problem early. The sooner you see issues, such as a tailgating caller or left-lane dawdler sending an important text, the sooner you can plan your strategy of avoidance and escape. 

Fight the urge to change your turn signals from factory issue to small, unnoticeable aftermarket units. In bright sunlight, these are almost impossible to see.

Use your horn if you need to use it! Don't just lightly tap on it, honk that thing! You want the driver next to you to actually hear it and look to see what's happening.

Knowing how to expect the unexpected is one of the best ways to stay alive. Defensive driving is a must for every biker. By implementing some of these tips, you're more likely to avoid the distracted driver near you. Be safe out there and enjoy the ride.

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Spyder riders know the difference, do you?



Many people think the only difference between a regular motorcycle and a Can Am Spyder is the addition of a third wheel but this is not necessarily so. The Spyder’s third wheel gives it added stability, and it is able to remain stable when stopped. As opposed to a motorcycle, a Spyder’s brakes are operated by a foot pedal on the right side of the bike. ABS brakes come standard with all Spyders, along with an electronic vehicle stability system (VSS).

Can-Am says that 25% of Spyder purchasers have no prior on-road riding experience, and that 25% of them are women. Around town, the Spyder is an amusing commuter. Like most heavy motorcycles the Spyder is clunky when it's stationary but nimble when it's on the move. On the freeway, speeds above 50 miles per hour feel quite stable.

For twisty roads and canyons, Can-Am has improved the Spyder's traction control and stability control over previous models. In a sharp turn, these systems increase braking to the outside wheel and even cut power to the engine to reduce the danger of tipping over — a real concern with some three-wheeled vehicles. Although fuel economy isn't usually a selling point on bigger bikes, Can-Am boasts the Spyder F3 can go 252 freeway miles on a single tank of gas, getting upward of 35 miles per gallon from the 7.1-gallon tank.

Motorcyclists approaching the Spyder may experience a slight sensation of arachnophobia. For some two-wheel veterans, a three-wheeled motorcycle offers only a few of the pleasures associated with motorcycling. Yes, you're riding free in the breeze, but a three-wheeler doesn't lean or float like a motorcycle. Even though steering is done with handlebars, it requires some shoulder and arm strength.

The Spyder’s unique design, which is wider than a motorcycle, also provides a different ride.
Spyders have lateral forces that push the rider to the outside of turns. Motorcycles have gyroscopic forces that pull riders down to the bike. As a result, Spyder riders don’t have to worry about accounting for the vehicle’s weight. The Can-Am Spyder, by nature, is just safer, because you don’t have that front wheel being able to tuck away. Having that added stability is really a better alternative in bad weather, for example, compared to a motorcycle. The Can-Am Spyder is its own riding class reinvented.

Can Am Spyders are readily accepted in the motorcycle community and riders wave to one another on the road. Some riders who have difficulty controlling the weight of a regular motorcycle actually prefer riding a Spyder. Some motorcycles can weigh 400 pounds or more.

There are three different Spyder models.
1. The Road Sport is lowest to the ground and has a slick look. The seat design forces a rider forward a little, reminiscent of a sports motorcycle.

2. The Sport Touring has a bigger build while maintaining a sport appearance. This model is better suited for cruising around town. The design does not force the rider forward as much, and has a more comfortable seating position for longer trips.

3. The Road Touring is designed for cross-country trips. It is the bulkiest of the models, and features the most cargo space at 44 gallons. In the rear storage compartment, electrical hookups are available for cellphones and satellite radios. The dash and windshield are also the largest.


Watch this instructional video to learn more about riding a CAN AM SPYER:




For more information about different models, visit Can Am's website by clicking here.

Listen to why these people chose to ride a Can Am instead of a regular bike. Watch here.

Want to try out a Spyder? You can take a free test ride! Schedule yours by clicking here.




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